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+--- Thread: 5 years 8 months later (/showthread.php?tid=62734)
Re: 5 years 8 months later - Ken Sp. - 09-24-2008
Both
http://www.amazon.com/LAMSON-PRODUCTS-HS300D-LIGHT-SOCKET/dp/B000HOSZNS
Or for a timer switch--get the digital version. I got one with Back Up battery at Home Depot for $33.97 and you set it once, and it accounts for daylight savings time, and dusk/dawn times at different times of year.
http://www.1000bulbs.com/Lighting_Controls/Auto_ShutOff_Timer/In_Wall_Astronomic_Timers/37178/?&utm_source=Froogle&utm_medium=shopping+site&utm_campaign=Froogle+datafeed
Re: 5 years 8 months later - LyleH - 09-24-2008
My front porch light has a motion detector built-in. So it only comes on when someone is at the front door. This is one of the 5 motion-detector lights I have around the outside of my house. Works for me......
LyleH
Re: 5 years 8 months later - JEBB - 09-24-2008
My late brother-in-law use to get them from the city he worked for. I think they were originally used for the traffic lights. I haven't had any for a while. Don't they use 220V bulbs in Europe? I think the socket design is the same as here in the US; they might do.
Re: 5 years 8 months later - Racer X - 09-24-2008
JEBB wrote:
Incandescent bulbs rated for 220V will also last many years when used with 110V.
For every 10% increase/decrease in voltage of a tungsten filament light bulb, the life is effected by a factor of 2. Most of the industrial long life bulbs are designed for 130 volts, thus roughly double life. Standard long life bulbs just have heavier filaments with more support.
If you run a halogen bulb at 110% or higher voltage, you run the risk of excessive temp and pressure, causing the glass to melt and the bulb to throw molten glass.
Re: 5 years 8 months later - ScottG - 09-24-2008
220-240V bulbs in the UK- but different fixtures than US (bayonet rather than screw)
cheers
scott
Re: 5 years 8 months later - Stephanie - 09-24-2008
Racer X wrote: For every 10% increase/decrease in voltage of a tungsten filament light bulb, the life is effected by a factor of 2. Most of the industrial long life bulbs are designed for 130 volts, thus roughly double life. Standard long life bulbs just have heavier filaments with more support.
If you run a halogen bulb at 110% or higher voltage, you run the risk of excessive temp and pressure, causing the glass to melt and the bulb to throw molten glass.
That's pretty much just what the description said on the bulbs in the link I posted.
Hint hint - they're pretty cheap too!
I'm not sold on compact fluorescents. I hate regular fluorescent lights & I don't find the compact ones to be very nice.
Re: 5 years 8 months later - M>B> - 09-24-2008
I once lived in a loft in Boston, a former shoe factory. It had both AC and DC outlets. DC was good for bulbs, but not for electronics, they would be fried! I marked the DC outlets with florescent paint to remind me. The power generation plant was only 2 blocks away. DC doesn't travel far in the grid! DC bulbs seemed to last forever as they didn't have to deal with the continuous cycling of AC.
Re: 5 years 8 months later - Racer X - 09-24-2008
you must be, like, 150 years old, right?
Re: 5 years 8 months later - Racer X - 09-24-2008
right Steph. I have mostly 130v FEIT bulbs actually. Home Depot carries them in Seattle. And a few GE Reveal in my office for better color rendering. I use CFs in bulbs that are on a long time when on.
Re: 5 years 8 months later - Speedy - 09-24-2008
I have a five light strip in our downstairs bathroom. I replaced a burned out incandescent with a CF bulb. Twice because the CFs failed twice. And I haven't changed out any of the other incandescents. I have replaced many CF bulbs in other fixtures way too early. I'm certainly not sold on them yet.