attic stairs advice for a (not very) handyman

[wurm]

aka "how to turn a few hours' work into a few weekends' work and still not be finished". I'll try to be brief.

My son and I replaced our attic stairs a couple of weekends ago. It went fairly well considering neither of us is particularly handy. Got it about 80% done. Last weekend I finished adjusting the ladder height after wrestling with some rivets. This past weekend I was going to install the trim around the perimeter. But after wasting several pieces of trim, cutting what semed to be either 44 or 46 degree angles for the corners, I decided there must be an easier way. I just don't know what it is.

So here are my questions.

1. Is there some trick to making mitred 45 degree angles with a table saw? Granted, it's a fairly cheap table saw, but for the once every couple of years I need one, I thought it would be good enough. Maybe it isn’t.

2. There are shims in place for securing the stair frame to the joists, but the gap around the stair frame I'm covering with the trim is probably a half inch all around. Should I jam insulation in those gaps? Any downside to using spray-foam insulation around the perimeter?

3. As for fastening the trim to the ceiling, that has become its own set of problems. The previous owner was a plasterer and there's a very nice plaster ceiling, but it means the freakin' nails have to get through the plaster, then into the joist or frame. I don't have a pneumatic nailer and I'm beginning to wonder if I couldn’t just use Liquid Nails or some other adhesive to secure the trim.

Thoughts on any of these issues? If I thought it would help, I'd post a picture, but it might be too embarrassing.

[Michael]

wurm wrote:
aka "how to turn a few hours' work into a few weekends' work and still not be finished". I'll try to be brief.

My son and I replaced our attic stairs a couple of weekends ago. It went fairly well considering neither of us is particularly handy. Got it about 80% done. Last weekend I finished adjusting the ladder height after wrestling with some rivets. This past weekend I was going to install the trim around the perimeter. But after wasting several pieces of trim, cutting what semed to be either 44 or 46 degree angles for the corners, I decided there must be an easier way. I just don't know what it is.

So here are my questions.

1. Is there some trick to making mitred 45 degree angles with a table saw? Granted, it's a fairly cheap table saw, but for the once every couple of years I need one, I thought it would be good enough. Maybe it isn’t.

2. There are shims in place for securing the stair frame to the joists, but the gap around the stair frame I'm covering with the trim is probably a half inch all around. Should I jam insulation in those gaps? Any downside to using spray-foam insulation around the perimeter?

3. As for fastening the trim to the ceiling, that has become its own set of problems. The previous owner was a plasterer and there's a very nice plaster ceiling, but it means the freakin' nails have to get through the plaster, then into the joist or frame. I don't have a pneumatic nailer and I'm beginning to wonder if I couldn’t just use Liquid Nails or some other adhesive to secure the trim.

Thoughts on any of these issues? If I thought it would help, I'd post a picture, but it might be too embarrassing.

The trick, for me, has been to use a miter box. I used to use a wood one, kind of like this: http://www.acehardware.com/product/index...Id=1287039&cagpspn=pla , but then I moved to a power miter saw. The hand one will work fine. And, remember, caulk covers a multitude of sins!

I think it would be fine to put foam in the gap, but I'd use a minimal expansion type just to be sure you don't bend anything out of place.

You can predrill the trim and plaster and then finish nails would go right in. But, it would hold just fine with construction adhesive on the trim and then caulk along the sides to fill the gaps.

[Cary]

1. Use a miter box, as suggested - either power (preferred) or manual. Mark the reveal (1/8" ) on the face of the frame at each corner and at a few spots along the the length.

Cut the first (long side) miter, then hold the mitered piece up to the frame and mark the second miter on the same piece.

Follow around the 4 sides in this manner.

Do not install nails in the last 12 inches of any of the 4 pieces until you have them all tacked up - this will allow you to adjust each of the miters.

Glue (wood glue) each miter joint.

A finish nail gun will help immensely in this task.

2. Use window and door (minimally expanding) spray insulation. DO NOT use regular spray insulation - it can bow the frame.

3. You can use Liquid Nails, but I would still nail some finish nails into the attic stair frame, and into the edge of the miter from one piece to the next.

You might want to consider renting a nail gun/compressor for this.

[wurm]

Thanks, guys. I'll give it another shot this weekend.

[Dubya]

Remember, your framing may not be perfectly square (90 degree corners) so the angle may have to be 44 or 46 degrees...