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LED TV Mounts with Sound bar Mount and cable management. Suggestions?
#1
Going to be hanging / mounting our 55” Samsung smart TV and Vizio Soundbar (I believe it’s a Vizio 4251W-B4) to the wall and looking for some suggestions. I’d also like to run my wires through the wall. I believe I have the following mount in my garage that I didn’t use but it will be in my family room so I want the TV as close to the wall as possible and would like to mount the sound bar to the TV mounts to avoid “extra holes”. Also, the soundbar is about 7 years old so I’m fine moving it to my basement and getting something else but I could probably hold off.

I “think” I have this bracket in my garage which I was going to use in my basement but never did. I want it as close to wall as possible. I “might” want it to tilt forward and back but don’t want full motion.

https://www.amazon.com/ECHOGEAR-Tilting-...oding=UTF8&refRID=PV545N1V6PCZ4QG58S5J&th=1

For the soundbar I’m thinking this will work.

https://www.amazon.com/Mounting-Dream-MD...oding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=JVETF7ZZADS2Z8QHZJQM

as far as cable management (in the wall), which kit do you guys recommend?

Thanks.
Bill
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#2
https://www.monoprice.com/search/index?k...bar+mounts

Some options.

Cable management needs pictures and potential electrical drawing. So many options out there. A four gang box behind the tv and wrapping cords tightly up out of sight is the easiest.
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#3
I simply put two 3" L-brackets under the set to rest the soundbar on. The various power cords and HTML lines were just run inside the wall. Everything is hidden behind the hardware.
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#4
I have a flush mount, but it's a pain to access the various connections on the back. So, I bought this mount. I can pull the tv out to connect wires, etc and then push it back. May not go back to the wall as close as a flush mount, but it's much easier for making connections

I'm currently using it for a 32 inch tv that is older and heavier than my new 55 inch. Works really well, so I wouldn't expect problems if I were to use it with my 55 inch tv.
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#5
For running the cables, I have this or a version it on almost every TV in my house...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H9C1176/

And although not a soundbar, I mounted my center channel speaker using l brackets flipped upside down so they mount to the wall behind the speaker then screw to the bottom. Practically invisible.
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#6
bazookaman wrote:
For running the cables, I have this or a version it on almost every TV in my house...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H9C1176/

And although not a soundbar, I mounted my center channel speaker using l brackets flipped upside down so they mount to the wall behind the speaker then screw to the bottom. Practically invisible.

I'd be surprised if that is up to Fire Code. The HDMI might be fine if it is in wall rated cable, but that power outlet extension is suspect. Extension cords in the walls are a no go just about everywhere that has a fire code. If it isn't Romex(or whatever off brand you use) it won't pass.
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#7
C(-)ris wrote:
[quote=bazookaman]
For running the cables, I have this or a version it on almost every TV in my house...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H9C1176/

And although not a soundbar, I mounted my center channel speaker using l brackets flipped upside down so they mount to the wall behind the speaker then screw to the bottom. Practically invisible.

I'd be surprised if that is up to Fire Code. The HDMI might be fine if it is in wall rated cable, but that power outlet extension is suspect. Extension cords in the walls are a no go just about everywhere that has a fire code. If it isn't Romex(or whatever off brand you use) it won't pass.
That's what I was thinking. Low voltage is fine, but not 120VAC.
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#8
Have some projects going on at my place and already discussed him running an outlet behind the TV (when it is mounted) and will figure out something to hide "low voltage".
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#9
Its definitely NOT an extension cord that goes in the wall. Its NM cable with a custom connector at each end. In the old days you just bought the top and bottom "connectors" and had to BYOR (Bring Your Own Romex).
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