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Where Do You Go For A Brake Job?
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06-01-2009, 04:20 PM
Will Collier wrote: Agreed - I went to them last time around. Their $99 "deal" ended up being several hundred dollars, probably more than the dealer would have cost. And about 8,000 miles later, they are starting to squeak again. 
06-01-2009, 04:26 PM
In my experience, turning rotors that are warped is a waste of time & money as they warp again quickly--at least in my hilly terrain.
$240 sounds inline for what I paid for brake work on a Grand Voyager at Monro Brake. For a real deal, go to your local independent but established and reputable garage. Brakes are well within their expertise. They are more likely to charge for the actual time spent on your job, not the "book" time, which really cranks up the cost on these relatively straightforward repairs. (I did not use my favorite shop for the brake job above because it takes 3 weeks to get in! I probably would have saved $50.)
06-01-2009, 04:29 PM
Yes, agreed- the 'chain' stores make their money by 'upselling'- go in with squeaky pads and you will go out with new calipers, rotors, brake lines, pads, shocks and/or struts and probably 'undercoating' and 'environmental charges' as well. They will even tell you "I'm not allowed to let your vehicle leave the shop because it's in this condition" if you go in for a 'free brake inspection".
I started doing all my own brake work after such an experience almost 30 years ago with a Midas shop. Never had a problem with a brake job I've ever done. I do, however, despise drum brakes deeply.Now I always just buy a full spring kit, because the darn spring thing goes 'sproing' and heads right for the floor drain in the garage.
06-01-2009, 04:30 PM
Will Collier wrote: Also agree. Have gotten a good job done at Brakes Plus, though. My Audi goes to a specialist for all work. I'm pretty comfortable taking the nissan to Brakes Plus, or Tires Plus.
06-01-2009, 04:52 PM
cbelt3 wrote: Agreed, I always buy all new hardware when I do brakes. If I am doing disk brakes there are usually slides and bolts, sometimes seals to replace. Drums you should always buy the spring kit and replace them all. I never could figure out the point of turning rotors. It is more than 50% of the cost of new ones. Just doesn't make sense.
06-01-2009, 05:43 PM
Ammo wrote: That sounds like a fair price. My local garage just hit me for $800 brake job, but it included new calipers, hoses rotors too. That's my punishment for buying a sporty car with parts that can be hard to find. He doesn't soak me like that for my other, non-sporty car.
06-01-2009, 05:49 PM
What exactly is your dealership quoting? A front brake job can range from a simple pad change to pads and rotors, to pads, rotors and fluid bleed and/or change. There's no way to know if that price is a deal without knowing the scope of work.
In general, the following rules of thumb apply (though YMMV)... Dealership service depts are notorious for overcharging...they are a major profit center for the dealership and prey on people's fear of getting ripped off by "the other guy". Their mechanics are usually well trained but often not too experienced. Independent mechanics who specialize in just a few makes are best. They usually have expertise, lower prices and experience, and don't have the dealership execs breathing down their necks to up the profit margin. Make sure to get recommendations first (see http://www.cartalk.com if you don't know where to get any). National chains are in general the worst...low paid mechanics, high pressure to charge for extra services, cheap knock off parts. Unless the rotor surfaces are glazed or heavily scored, there is seldom any reason to turn them. In fact, rotors these days are much lighter than in the days of yore (i.e. the 70s and before) when there was plenty of metal on them and turning was a frequent rotor renovation method. Oftentimes shops turn them purely for the purpose of making a little more money off the customer. Turning can actually be a bad thing...it makes the rotors thinner, which means they are more susceptible to warping, and some car makers specifically state that their rotors should not be turned. For most cars the sequence should be: 1)check rotor for thickness...if too thin or warped, replace rotors and pads and go to step 3. 2) check for rotor damage...if none, change pads. If scored or glazed determine whether resurfacing is approved by car maker and/or can be done without compromising thickness. If so, turn, replace pads. 3) Check sponginess of pedal. If spongy, fix problem and bleed. 4. Check how long since last brake fluid replacement. If 2 years or more flush and bleed.
06-01-2009, 05:49 PM
If you don't have any vibration in the pedal then you can probably just get pads. I just had them replaced for $90 from my local mechanic - rear only since the fronts were still in decent shape.
Sure, I could jack it up, and spend a few hours trying to do it and save $60 - but time is money. And, then I also know it's done right. Can't emphasize having a mechanic you trust! |
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