[metal] how to shorten the quill?

[mattkime]

I have this guy, and as i feared, he's a bit too long. http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/c...clamp.html



Unfortunately common stems are too short for my needs so I'd like to cut this guy. My plan was to carefully draw the diagonal line, score it with the dremel, and then hack saw it. Maybe smooth the edges with the dremel. Oh, I'm working with aluminum.

What do you think? Am I getting myself into trouble?

[deckeda]

I suppose it would work. Between this and the brake boss issue, it's turning into a Frankenstein real bike, isn't it?

[lost in space]

No telling what binding issues might come up if the cut wasn't just right. I'd take it to a machine shop.

[MacArtist]

I would try to build a jig that would help hold the piece and maintain the proper angle of the cut.

This could be made out of wood. I wouldn't use it more than once but I think it would do a sufficient job.

You need this:
Find the angle of the cut in relation to the stem

[lafinfil]

It appears to be a 45° angle - if so you could use a wood miter box and hacksaw. You would need to square the part the holds the bars to the work surface at a 90° angle and clamp it down good. Another consideration is the threaded rod/screw that tightens the wedge. I assume it is only threaded on the end and not the full length so you need to plan for that with a shorter piece or a rethread.

I don't know how expensive this piece is, but if it has any value you should just take it to a machine shop where that can use a power band/hacksaw. It's a 30 minute job at the most (including having a smoke while the saw cuts it) If you know any metal workers you could also do it with a chop saw, but a band saw would be preferred IMHO.

[Filliam H. Muffman]

The thing that will likely take the most time will be finishing the mating surface once you get the right angle. I would use a hacksaw with it clamped in some sort of jig and cut 1mm long, then a bench belt or disc sander working up to 1000 or 1600 grit.

[mattkime]

deckeda wrote:
I suppose it would work. Between this and the brake boss issue, it's turning into a Frankenstein real bike, isn't it?

yeah, i figured that out when i started stripping off all the vintage parts. i think it will look good when I'm done but I now appreciate the ease of working with a modern frame.

I'm sure there will be more questions like this.

[DRR]

If you want to DIY it instead of taking it to a shop, then hacksaw and jig would probably be fine.

One thing to remember though, is the way that part works - tighten the bolt and it basically pushes the stem away from that bottom part (don't know what it's called) so there is tension in the head tube, right? You want a good accurate cut to facilitate the move but I don't think you'll need to grind or buff/polish up to 1600 grit. Won't help its function. But if that level of detail is important to you then have at it.

[btfc]

You could blow the cut by a degree or so and it would still work fine. Most stem bolts will have plenty of thread. I ditched several stems recently, but I still have some, as well as numerous stem bolts. PM me with desired measurements if you wish.

[NewtonMP2100]

......think that is a mistake.....the ladies love longer quills........