What, if anything, do we like for building websites these days?

[sekker]

You can get down to pretty basic code-level at wordpress.

https://www.inmotionhosting.com/support/...wordpress/

Squarespace is also not obligately drag-and-drop.

I think it's worth your time to explore what these website tools can do than assume they are only for simpletons just because someone without coding can make a site using those tools.